The majority of crossbow sights are fixed power. Fixed power scopes are also more convenient to operate, more reliable, and offer better light transmission. A fixed scope makes it easier to hit a moving target because you don’t have to adjust the power. On the other hand, Variable scopes are dependable as well, although they are difficult to use.
But you’d have to figure out how much hold over you’ll need on your scope for different ranges without adjusting it. Don’t feel obligated to purchase another crossbow scope if your crossbow already has one. Just because a crossbow scope is expensive does not mean that it will be a high-quality crossbow scope.
To acquire a more accurate and precise aim with a variable power scope, you must use the adjustable turrets. And if you need to act quickly, this can be an issue. Furthermore, they only deliver valid data when magnified to a specified magnification.
Being able to use the scope is one of the features that make crossbows such efficient one-shot hunting weapons. And the good news is that anyone who is even vaguely familiar with conventional firearm scopes will have no trouble using and sighting crossbow scopes – though you may need to brush up on range-finding if you are shooting beyond 20 yards. If you haven’t used any crossbow before this method may help you to sight in any high quality crossbow scope.
Locate the scope’s adjusting mechanisms. On the side of the scope is the windage adjustment, which spins the scope left and right. The elevation adjustment, which raises and lowers the scope, is located on the top.
Place a target within 10 yards of it once it’s been installed because there are fewer chances to miss the target so it is a safe distance. We’d like to shoot some “groups” now. The old method of determining how a weapon shoots is to group shots. It usually entails firing 3-5 shots in a row from the same location, with no adjustments to the rig or arrows.
This accomplishes two goals: it reduces random twitches and other issues with the user, and it establishes the overall consistency of your equipment. As you might expect, the tighter the groups you shoot, the better — and the “spread” should be measured by placing a ruler between the outermost shots. You’re doing well if you can group your shots with spreads of 4 inches or less.
It’s conceivable that your scope isn’t properly installed if you’re not even close to striking the bullseye after firing your first groups. Make sure everything is in its right location and the screws are securely fastened (use a thread locker if necessary).
If the scope is properly mounted, course changes to the elevation (vertical adjustment) or windage (horizontal adjustment) knobs may be required to bring things back to reality.
Normally, you’ll want to turn these slowly, but if you’re missing a lot, you can turn them one or more full revolutions until it’s essential, then turn a few “clicks” or less to bring you back on track. Some people like to calculate how many clicks are required to find the bullseye, but I prefer to alter and test – and repeat as necessary!
It’s time to zero the scope in for more realistic shooting now that you’ve gotten to the stage where you’re grouping three or more rounds well around the target. Because we’re expecting that most of our shooting would take place within 20 yards, we’ll use that as our zero in this case (20 yards is ideal for most shooters).
So we’ll move the target out to 20 yards and continuing shooting groups – fine-tuning the windage/elevation as needed – until we’re consistently hitting the bullseye. Remember that if you’re using a reticle with many dots or crosshair “pins,” you should be on the uppermost dot/pin at this point.